Short-term dynamics of a high energy embayed beach: Stanwell Park, NSW, Australia

Abstract The three-dimensional variability of the subaerial beach is examined for Stanwell Park Beach, New South Wales (NSW), Australia. This embayed environment has previously been studied over long time scales (decades), but not over shorter time scales (days, weeks). Embayed beaches experience ro...

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Bibliographic Details
Published in:Ocean and Coastal Research (Online) 2023, Vol.71
Main Authors: Asselot, Rémy, Brander, Robert W.
Format: Article
Language:eng ; por
Subjects:
OCEANOGRAPHY
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Summary:Abstract The three-dimensional variability of the subaerial beach is examined for Stanwell Park Beach, New South Wales (NSW), Australia. This embayed environment has previously been studied over long time scales (decades), but not over shorter time scales (days, weeks). Embayed beaches experience rotation events during which opposite accretion and erosion patterns are observed at the extremities of the beach. To analyse this phenomenon, the beach is mapped with 10 Real-Time Kinematic Global Positioning System (RTK-GPS) surveys collected from 10th February 2016 to 14th May 2016. This study aims to examine short-term changes (days, weeks) to the morphology of the subaerial beach of Stanwell Park Beach and any factors that may influence its behaviours. We show that a short-time beach rotation event occurs over one month, caused by a large eastern swell. However, swell with a southern direction generates rip current channels on the subaerial beach face. During this particular event, the amount of sediment transported is lower than during beach rotation events. Furthermore, Stanwell Park Beach has two lagoons that can open to discharge water accumulated in these lagoons. We show that during heavy rainfall, the lagoons open, transporting sediment in surf zone and thus causing erosion. This study provides a clear demonstration of the sensitivity of embayed beaches to short-term variability in wave climate.
ISSN:2675-2824
2675-2824
DOI:10.1590/2675-2824071.22116ra