Anti‐inflammatory / anti‐oxidant activity of ingredients of sunscreen products? Implications for SPF

Objective The Sun Protection Factor (SPF) of sunscreen products is derived from testing in vivo their ability to prevent erythema (“sunburn”). Recently, certain articles have raised concerns that sunscreen products may actively suppress erythema via anti‐inflammatory / anti‐oxidant (AI/AO) activity....

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Bibliographic Details
Published in:International journal of cosmetic science 2019-06, Vol.41 (3), p.320-324
Main Authors: Kolbe, L., Pissavini, M., Tricaud, C., Trullás Cabanas, C., Dietrich, E., Matts, P. J.
Format: Article
Language:English
Subjects:
Adult
Anti-Inflammatory Agents - pharmacology
Antioxidants
Antioxidants - pharmacology
Cancer
claim substantiation
Cosmetics industry
Delay
emulsions
Erythema
Female
formulation / stability
Formulations
Human behavior
Humans
In vivo methods and tests
Inflammation
Ingredients
Irradiation
Male
Middle Aged
Original
Propagation
Security
Skin - drug effects
Skin - radiation effects
Skin cancer
Sun Protection Factor
Sun screens
Sunburn
Sunscreen
Sunscreening Agents - chemistry
Ultraviolet radiation
Ultraviolet Rays
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Summary:Objective The Sun Protection Factor (SPF) of sunscreen products is derived from testing in vivo their ability to prevent erythema (“sunburn”). Recently, certain articles have raised concerns that sunscreen products may actively suppress erythema via anti‐inflammatory / anti‐oxidant (AI/AO) activity. These articles reason that this may result in a higher labelled SPF value than that provided by the efficacy of the UVR filters alone, giving consumers a “false sense of security”. On the other hand, since inflammatory processes are known to play a role in the mechanisms of photodamage / skin cancer induction and propagation, AI/AO activity may provide valuable incremental photoprotective benefit (provided that there is no interference with visible erythema). The objective of these studies, therefore, was to investigate the potential of AI/AO ingredients to suppress UVR‐induced erythemal response in human skin, in vivo. Methods In vivo studies with SPF30 sunscreen formulations containing a variety of AI/AO ingredients were performed according to the International Standard ISO24444:2010 method. While ISO24444:2010 requires assessment of erythema at 20 ± 4h post‐irradiation, an additional assessment at 5 h post‐irradiation was also used to determine potential delay in erythema development. Results None of the formulations, containing a variety of AI/AO ingredients, influenced SPF determination in comparison to the vehicle formulation. Conclusion Our in vivo results demonstrate that commonly‐used AI/AO ingredients, at concentrations typically used in sunscreen products, neither influence SPF value nor delay erythemal response, i.e., the measured SPF reflects the true photoprotective capacity of the product. Résumé Objectif Le facteur de protection solaire (SPF) des produits de protection solaire est dérivé de tests in vivo servant à déterminer leur capacité à prévenir un érythème (« coup de soleil »). Récemment, certains articles ont soulevé des inquiétudes en insinuant que les produits de protection solaire pourraient activement faire disparaître un érythème par le biais d'une activité anti‐inflammatoire/anti‐oxydante (AI/AO). Ces articles soutiennent que cela pourrait impliquer une valeur déclarée du SPF plus élevée que celle fournie par l'efficacité des filtres RUV à eux seuls, donnant ainsi une « fausse impression de sécurité » aux consommateurs. D'autre part, étant donné que les processus inflammatoires sont réputés jouer un rôle dans les mécanismes de photo‐
ISSN:0142-5463
1468-2494
1468-2494
DOI:10.1111/ics.12540