Amphiphilic association structures in a model skin lotion with hydroxy acids

Synopsis The phase diagrams were determined of lactic and isohexanoic hydroxy acids as well as salicylic acid with water, a non‐ionic surfactant and a paraffinic oil to outline the influence of the hydroxy acids on the structure in a model for a skin lotion. The results showed the influence of the a...

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Bibliographic Details
Published in:International journal of cosmetic science 2004-06, Vol.26 (3), p.139-147
Main Authors: Al-Bawab, A., Friberg, S. E.
Format: Article
Language:English
Subjects:
alpha and beta hydroxy acid
Applied sciences
Chemical industry and chemicals
Cosmetics, toiletries
emulsion
Exact sciences and technology
liquid crystals
skin lotion
solubilization
Washing products. Cosmetics and toiletries. Perfumes
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Summary:Synopsis The phase diagrams were determined of lactic and isohexanoic hydroxy acids as well as salicylic acid with water, a non‐ionic surfactant and a paraffinic oil to outline the influence of the hydroxy acids on the structure in a model for a skin lotion. The results showed the influence of the acid to be similar to that of the oil, but that the difference in chain length between the two alpha acids had only insignificant influence. The results are discussed from two aspects: the structures involved in the lotion as applied and the action of the lotion residue on the skin after the evaporation of the water. Résumé Les diagrammes de phase de l'acide lactique, de l'acide hydroxy‐isohexanoïque, de l'acide salicylique dans l'eau, ainsi que celui d'un tensio actif non‐ionique et une huile de paraffine, ont été déterminés afin de décrire l'influence des hydroxy acides sur la structure en prenant pour modèle une lotion cutanée. Les résultats ont montré que l'influence de l'acide est la même que celle de l'huile, et que la différence de longueur de chaîne entre deux alpha hydroxy acides avait une influence peu significative. Les résultats sont discutés à partir de deux aspects: les structures impliquées dans la lotion telle qu'elle est appliquée et l'action des résidus de la lotion sur la peau, suite à l’évaporation de l'eau.
ISSN:0142-5463
1468-2494
DOI:10.1111/j.1467-2494.2004.00212.x