A study of dissipation of wind-waves by mud at Cassino Beach, Brazil: Prediction and inversion

The impact of a non-rigid seafloor on the wave climate at Cassino Beach, Brazil, May–June 2005 is studied using field measurements and a numerical wave model. The measurements consist of wave data at four locations; rheology and mud thickness from grab samples; and an estimate of the horizontal dist...

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Bibliographic Details
Published in:Continental shelf research 2009-03, Vol.29 (3), p.676-690
Main Authors: Erick Rogers, W., Todd Holland, K.
Format: Article
Language:English
Subjects:
(53°W, 32°S) (52°W, 33°S)
Cassino Beach
Marine
Mud
Rheology (Brazil
Rio Grande do Sol
SWAN
Wave analysis
Wave attenuation
Wave damping
Wave dissipation
Wave hindcasting
Wave model
Wave predicting
Wave spectra
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Summary:The impact of a non-rigid seafloor on the wave climate at Cassino Beach, Brazil, May–June 2005 is studied using field measurements and a numerical wave model. The measurements consist of wave data at four locations; rheology and mud thickness from grab samples; and an estimate of the horizontal distribution of mud based on echo-soundings. The dissipation of waves by a non-rigid bottom is represented in the wave model by treating the mud layer as a viscous fluid. Applied for 431 time periods, the model without this type of dissipation has a strong tendency to overpredict nearshore wave energy, except during a period of large storm waves. Two model variations which include this dissipation have a modest tendency to underpredict the nearshore wave energy. An inversion methodology is developed and applied to infer an alternate mud distribution which, when used with the wave model, yields the observed waveheights.
ISSN:0278-4343
1873-6955
DOI:10.1016/j.csr.2008.09.013