Links between wave forcing, offshore islands and a macro-tidal headland-bound bay beach

ABSTRACT Profiles were analysed in conjunction with wave climate to assess offshore island influences on an embayed beach at Tenby, Wales. Time series analyses showed medium and short‐term beach oscillation, with volume exchanges between zones lagging by up to six months. Dominant southerly and sout...

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Bibliographic Details
Published in:Earth surface processes and landforms 2014-02, Vol.39 (2), p.143-155
Main Authors: Thomas, Tony, Phillips, Michael R., Williams, Allan T., Jenkins, Rhian E.
Format: Article
Language:English
Subjects:
beach oscillation
Beaches
Bgi / Prodig
Coastal geomorphology
cross-correlation
Drift
embayed beach
Geomorphology
Islands
Offshore
Offshore engineering
offshore islands
Offshore structures
Physical geography
Tidal energy
Tidal power
wave models
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Summary:ABSTRACT Profiles were analysed in conjunction with wave climate to assess offshore island influences on an embayed beach at Tenby, Wales. Time series analyses showed medium and short‐term beach oscillation, with volume exchanges between zones lagging by up to six months. Dominant southerly and southwesterly waves caused sub and low tidal longshore drift from south towards north, while less frequent southeasterly waves generated counter drift. Modelled inshore breaking waves had less energy than offshore ones and the former behaved differently between the low and high tidal zones (spring tidal range of 7 · 5 m). Variations in wave direction from directly behind the islands resulted in reduced wave heights and statistical analyses agreed with wave model results. These were correlated to morphological change and it was concluded that offshore islands change wave dynamics and modify the morphology of embayed beaches in their lee. Consequently, this work provides significant new insights into offshore island influences, shoreline behaviour and especially tidal setting Copyright © 2013 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.
ISSN:0197-9337
1096-9837
DOI:10.1002/esp.3433